If you’re not going to go on horseback to see the glacier, Sonamarg per se is a bit of a waste. Neither my wife nor I were in physical condition to mount a pair of the spavined nags on display, and whose owners sang loudly of their virtues and docile nature. The last time I went horseback is a time best forgotten. Hence, discretion prevailed over valour, and we restricted our time in Sonamarg to wandering around the town, coffee and a slapdash lunch at a local dhaba.
Sonamarg the town is somewhat unprepossessing and disappointing after the glories of Farah’s Homestay. It’s charm was further affected by the constant rain that fell for the few hours we spent there. But in between the showers, the sun god sometimes deigned to show his face to us mortals. And when he did, the views were pretty spectacular.
The views from various places on the drive to Sonamarg were perhaps even more so.
Sonamarg is not a permanent settlement and is inaccessible in winter due to snowfall and avalanches. However, during our short visit, we saw that the construction of the Z-Morh Tunnel was in full swing, and when completed, the road will be motorable throughout the year. This may bring permanent settlers to Sonamarg.